I've had the unique
experience to serve as a Peace Corps volunteer in two countries of
different economic structure. Mali and Morocco may both be
considered 3rd world or developing countries, but the
truth is that the two countries are on very different standards of
living. While serving in Mali I would refer to the Moroccan version
of the program as Posh Corps, in an effort to feel better about the
struggles of living in Mali. Now, living in Morocco, I wonder how I
ever survived Mali without an outlet to plug a fan into. However,
the differences between working in a place like Mali and a place like
Morocco go far beyond lack of creature comforts. A healthy middle
class exists in Morocco, influencing the way Peace Corps volunteers
function.
With practically any
indicator, Morocco is far ahead of Mali in standards of living. Life
expectancy in Morocco is 72 years and in Mali it is 55 years. Literacy rate in
Morocco is 56% and in Mali it is 33%. Most interesting, the Per Capita
GDP in Morocco is 5,400$ while in Mali it is 1,100$ (CIA World Factbook).
In fact, many Malians hardly used currency, harvesting their crops
and praying that it will last them until the next rainy season.
Moroccans, on the other hand, can afford meat with most meals, can
afford multiple sets of clothing, and almost always live with
electricity and running water. A host family I lived with had
satellite TV, internet, a washing machine, and a vehicle, and I
wouldn't consider the family wealthy. A strong middle-class is
present in Morocco.
A recent visit to the Ouzoud
Waterfalls in central Morocco illustrated this fact. At mid-summer,
the falls were swarmed with tourists. Many came from Europe or
America, but it felt like maybe 75% were Moroccans. The image above shows my friend Vince jumping into a swimming hole with Moroccan and European tourists walking along the canyons main path. With
temperatures soaring and no school in session, the falls make for an
attractive destination. I saw Moroccan families picnicking in the
shade or ordering a meal at one of the waterfront restaurants. Kids
splashed in the shallows while teenagers encouraged each other to
dive in from the steep edges of the river. Many groups were composed
of young Moroccan males looking for a hike, a swim, and a relaxing
place to smoke their hash. Ouzoud is quite the playground with
swimming, cliff jumping, hiking, and spectacular views The fact
that so many Moroccans can afford to visit indicates that this is a
population with a bit of economic flexibility.
Economic stability fuels
business in Morocco's urban areas. Not too long ago, most Moroccans
farmed, but today, the country is 57% urban (Mali is 35%). Towns are crammed with
shops and the economy is much more diversified than basic
agriculture. Though unemployment concerns Morocco, there is enough
freedom to fit into an agreeable occupation. My neighbor interested
in languages teaches English at the High School and owns a book
store. Moustafa is passionate about travel, and works as a taxi
driver, giving him the chance to explore the sites of his country.
Yunes is a barber, and I guess maybe he's into fashion or something.
Though, these people often complain to me about poverty in Morocco
and lack of employment opportunities, they are not stuck in
agriculture. They can pursue their interests and can afford to go to
the beach a few times per summer.
As a volunteer, my role
feels much different in Morocco than it did in Mali. Receiving the
same pay as I am in Morocco, I was by far the wealthiest person in my
village in Mali. I ate the same food, fetched the same water, and
lived in the same style mud hut as people in my village, but I was
still relatively rich, and afforded trips to splurge in the cities.
This created certain challenges. There was an overwhelming
expectation for me to rescue the village by funding a large scale
project. For many in my village, my purpose was little more than a
source of money. I never did get the chance to raise the money that
was expected from me, and to this day I have weird feelings about it.
There was also the guilt of spending money on traveling and visiting
American friends. Every beer I drank could have been money spent on
fruits and vegetables for my neighbors. Observing the raw beautiful
life of rural Mali touched me deeply, but I struggled to function and
blend into the structure of the village's economy.
In Morocco, these stresses
have been washed away. I am a piece of my town's economy now and my
function makes sense. In Mali, I mostly observed. In Morocco, I
have a chance to participate. Economically, I fit right in,
affording a lifestyle similar to most Moroccans. Also, Through the
inevitable cultural globalization that accompanies economic
development, I am more able to communicate with and relate to
Moroccans than I was able to with agrarian Malians. Our interests
and hobbies overlap. I'm just a regular teacher, and integration
comes natural. My language skills and understanding of Islam are
much better than they were in Mali. I am able to share values and
attitudes with those around me. Even though Morocco doesn't provide
the opportunity for the mud hut organic lifestyle, its advantages
still produce a powerful experience, where I am doing much more than
just observing the activity around me.
I am very fortunate to have
experienced a Peace Corps life in two countries. The differences
between the two experiences allow me to realize the wide range of
human lifestyles. In Mali I was rich and lived poor, struggling with
the cruelties of rural Sahel and feeling guilty any time I used money
to escape from it. In America I was poor but lived rich, abusing my
creature comforts and feeling too much pressure to participate in
consumerism that I could not afford. Morocco on the other hand, is a
comfortable middle ground where I really can't complain about my
financial situation. I do hope I get paid tomorrow though, because
right now I am totally broke.
Below is Vince, Matthew, and Rebecca enjoying being middle class at Ouzoud.
