Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Communication

It is not unusual for a human to be multi-lingual. Many grow up surrounded by two or more languages within their household or community. Despite being illiterate, most the men I knew while in Peace Corps Mali could speak two or three languages. Here in Morocco most the population has studied French since elementary school and can't help but speak it well. Humans speak second or third languages almost by accident, as their language abilities are generally just products of their habits and environments. They do not go out of their way to learn a new language. They are not scholars or geniuses. It's almost like it should be natural for humans to be multi-lingual.

For the sake of survival, Peace Corps volunteers intensely study and are immersed into the local language. Unlike studying a language in America, there is no escape from the exotic sounds, words, and phrases. Sleeping is the only escape, and even then I dream about verbs. It's sink or swim. Lots of volunteers swim (or at least tread water), and results are amazing. Most volunteers I've met learn local languages and can speak them confidently and effectively. By local languages I do not mean French or Spanish, I am talking about languages most people have never heard of (Bambara, Do-nosso, Fufulde, and Tomokan just to name some that were taught in Mali).

In Morocco all volunteers are taught Darija, or Moroccan Arabic. Standard Arabic is not spoken across the Arab world. Like Latin, the original tongue has morphed over time and space and today different dialects of Arabic are as different as Portuguese is to Italian. Moroccans and Saudis would struggle to converse with each other and with other Arab speakers. Darija has evolved its own unique sounds, words and grammar. It has also been injected with sounds and words from Western Europe and from the original Berber settlers. Though it is considered a 'dialect' of Arabic, perhaps it should be thought of as its own language within the Arabic family.



Learning a language is a strange process. More than any other skill, it is all about practice. The theory helps, but it can also be incredibly distracting. Do I memorize verbs? Or memorize phrases? Maybe I should let the sounds wash over me and the language will sink in. Or I could listen attentively and pick out the words I understand. Should I try to use the phrases I've learned or will I sound like an idiot? Is it alright to engage with someone for the sake of practicing even if I don't really care where the taxi driver is from? I probably should not worry too much about it because it's too exhausting. But then I won't learn it!

Beneath the frustrations are miracles that make the struggle worth it. It's astounding when my efforts are understood. The noises come from my lips but they do not belong to me. I am borrowing sounds that do not register in my brain, but ring clear for the listener. How can the performance be more meaningful to the audience than the entertainer? Like a spell, the sounds I mutter are non-sense that feel like magic when understood.

It is practically impossible to measure improvement. There are moments where I swear I have forgotten every single word, and can't form the simplest syllables. There are moments where a flurry of sounds coming from the TV make perfect sense. When I feel confident and in control of a conversation I begin to think that I'm a sort of linguistics master. But then the next morning I forget how to say 'good morning.' I am constantly being tested, and since I am hardly ever prepared I am getting good at failing.

I should be able to express myself more and more every week. Maybe I will even be fluent eventually. But what does it mean to be fluent? I don't think I am even fluent in English. There's lots of stuff going on in English that I don't understand or can't express. This post is a perfect example of how bad I am at English. I swear half these sentences I write are bad English. Someone asked me to translate lyrics to a rap song once, and I couldn't do it. I could tell it was in English, but I had no idea what the rapper was trying to say. Shouldn't someone who is fluent at a language be able to translate the words of a song? So I guess fluency does not mean perfection, because of course I am fluent in English. Maybe it doesn't require that much to be considered fluent. I will be able to communicate effectively in Darija, and I suppose my words will 'flow,' and so that would mean that my words are 'fluent.' So yea, sure, I'll be fluent in 6 months or a year or something. Or not, depending on how you define fluency.

Really, what I am doing is inventing my own system of communication based on Darija. Word choice varies greatly from person to person. Within the same language, what one person speaks is not the same as what another speaks. Words define backgrounds and personalities, and even in English there are so many words I do not use because I have never practiced using them and it doesn't feel like me if I were to use them. In Morocco I need to memorize a bunch of words that are Darija in order to survive, and I also need to create a Darija personality. I can't rely on my American words to show who I am. My personality is now reflected through new sounds and actions, that can't reveal more complex facets of my personality. I need to discover how to say which words in order to generate the right emotions. How does an American in Morocco make friends laugh? Or demonstrate sympathy? How do I show that I am sad? Or happy? Or serious? Or need help? Or want to be left alone? It will take more than memorizing certain phrases to do this.

Actions speak louder than words, especially when you can't use words. Language is a tool that attempts to express the wide range of human attitudes and emotions. But it is not always effective and sometimes it even distorts understanding. In English I can disguise my true feelings and desires with words. In Morocco I can't bullshit. I must represent myself without words by using non-verbal communication like laughter, touching, shaking hands, playing and all sorts of other behaviors that haven't even occurred to me yet. Even subtle facial expressions say a lot. These simple behaviors can carry more weight than I would expect, and even without using language, family and friends have a good idea of my basic personality. In the future, more Darija skills will help develop deeper understanding with certain people, but also allow for distortion and manipulation. Language makes life complicated sometimes.